By Sylvia Bernstein and Dr. Wilson Lennard
Many
of our community site members havepointed out that we need some
basic rules-of-thumb for aquaponic gardening. Why?
Because they will help the beginnersamong us get started without
needing to spend weeks researchingwhat to do.
I’ve had the distinct honor of collaborating with Dr. Wilson
Lennard from Australia on the guidelines that follow
below. Dr. Lennard has earned one of the few PhDs in
aquaponics in the world. These guidelines have also been
reviewed and endorsed by Murray Hallam of Practical
Aquaponics, and the “Aquaponics Made Easy” and “Aquaponics Secrets” videos, and TCLynx and
Kobus from this community site.
Nothing we say below is set in stone and there are exceptions to
almost every one of the listed rules-of-thumb given certain
conditions. However, they do offer a set of generally accepted
principles that, if adhered to, will put you on the path towards
successful aquaponic gardening.
One final caveat. These rules are intended for media-based
backyard or hobby systems only. If you are intending to get
into aquaponics commercially, first please read “Commercial Aquaponics: 10 Things to Consider Before
Taking the Plunge”. Then please seek a professional
training course that will help you design an optimal system that
has a chance to generate a profit.
Let’s get started…
System type – Media bed is recommended for new,
hobby growers. Why not NFT or Deep Water Culture (AKA raft
orDWC)?
- A media bed performs three (3) filtering functions;
-
- mechanical (solids removal)
- mineralization (solids breakdown and return to the water)
- bio-filtration
- Because the media bed also acts as the place for plant
growth,it basically does everything all in one component – making
it allsimple.
- Media also provides better plant support and is more closely
related to traditional soil gardening because there is a media to
plant into.
- The cost of building the aquaponics system is lower
because there are fewer components.
- It is easier to understand and learn.
Grow Bed
- The industry standard is to be at least 12” (30 cm) deep to
allow for growing the widest variety of plants and to provide
complete filtration.
- Must be made of food safe materials and should not alter the pH
of your system (beware of concrete).
Fish tank
- If you have flexibility here, 250 gallon (1000 liters) or
larger seems to create the most stable aquaponics
systems. Larger volumes are better for beginners because
they allow more room for error; things happen more slowly at larger
volumes.
- Must be made of food safe materials and should not alter the pH
of your system (again, beware of concrete).
Stocking Density –
- 1 pound of fish per 5 – 7 gallons of tank water (.5 kg per
20-26 liters)
Steps for Planning your System
- Determine the total grow bed area in sq ft (or sq m)
- From grow bed area, determine the fish weight required (pounds
or kg) using the ratio rule 1 lb (.5 kg) of fish for every 1 sq
ft(.1 sq m) of grow bed surface area, assuming the beds are at
least12” (30 cm) deep.
- Determine fish tank volume from the stocking density rule above
(1 pound fish per 5 – 7 gallons of fish tank volume or .5 kg per
20-26 liters). When your fish are young and small, reduce the
number of plants in proportion to the size of the fish and their
corresponding feed rate / waste production.
For example, if you plan to have 2 2’x4’ grow beds, then you
will have 16 sq ft of growing area. Plan to stock so you have
a mature weight of 16 pounds of fish which require an 80 – 112
gallon fish tank.
Media
- Must be inert – i.e won’t decompose or alter the pH of the
system.
- LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate, AKA Hydroton),
Expanded Shale, and Gravel are the most widely
used media types. If you choose gravel, understand it’s
source and avoid limestone and marble as they could affect your
pH.
Water Flow
- You should flood, then drain your grow beds. The draining
action pulls oxygen through the grow beds. The least complicated
way to achieve a reliable flood drain system is using a timer.While more
complex, siphons are also excellent options for
aquaponics.
- If you are operating your system with a timer you should run
itfor 15 minutes on, and 45 minutes off.
- You want to flow the entire volume of your fish tank through
your aquaponic grow beds every hour if
possible. Therefore, if you are running your pump for 15
minutes every hour (see above), and you have a 100 gallon tank, you
need at least a 400 gallon per hour (gph) pump. Now consider
the “lift” or how far against gravity you need to move that water
and use the sliding scale that is on the pump packaging to see how
much more power you need beyond the 400 gph.
Starting you System or “Cycling” –
Fishless Cycling is recommended because it will develop a
robust bacteria base and allow you to fully stock your fish tank in
a couple of weeks vs. the traditional method of using fish which
can be very stressful for the fish. For instructions see
Fishless Cycling.
Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates – after cycling,
- Ammonia and Nitrite levels should be less than .5 ppm
- If you see Ammonia levels rise suddenly, you may have a dead
fish in your tank.
- If you see Nitrite levels rise you may have damaged the
bacterial environment in your system.
- If either of the above circumstances occur, stop feeding your
fish until the levels stabilize, and, in extreme cases, do a 1/3
water exchange to dilute the existing solution.
- Nitrates can rise as high as 150 ppm without causing a problem,
but much above that, you should consider adding another grow bed to
your system.
Oxygen –Be sure there is plenty of oxygen
inyour fish tank. You can do this through the use of a
separate
aeration device and by diverting part of the water from
flooding and draining your grow beds directly into your
aquaponics fish tank. The only way you can have too much
oxygen in a fish tank is if you are literally blowing your fish out
of the tank. If you don’t have enough oxygen being infused
into your tank your fish will be gasping for air at the water
surface, but if you reach this stage you may have done permanent
damage to your fish’s respiratory system.
When to add plants
- Add plants as soon as you start cycling your system, but accept
that they may not grow well for the few weeks required for cycling
to occur.
- If you add
Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed to your tank when planting (Australians
call this
Seasol) at the rate of 1 quart bottle per 250 gallons (1000
liters), your plants will establish themselves much more
quickly.
- You can place your plants roughly twice as closely together as
you would in soil.
When to add fish if you are using a Fishless Cycling
technique – add
fish once nitrates are present and the ammonia and nitrite
levels have peaked and declined below 1.0ppm.
Feeding Rate
- Feed as much as your fish will eat in 5 minutes, 1 – 3 times
per day. An adult fish will eat approximately 1% of its body
weight per day. Fish fry (babies) will eat as much as
7%. Be careful not to over feed your fish.
- If your fish aren’t eating they are probably stressed, outside
of their optimal temperature range, or they don’t have enough
oxygen.
Worms - Add a handful of
composting red worms to each grow bed once your system is fully
cycled and fish have been added. They will help process the
solid waste from the fish in your grow beds.
pH
- Target a pH of neutral, or 7.0, in your aquaponicsystem. This
is a compromise between the optimal ranges of the fish, the plants,
and the bacteria. For fish, this is a pH of around 6.5 to
8.0. For plants, this is a pH of around 5.0 to 7.0 and for bacteria
it is a pH of 6.0 to 8.0.
- Test pH at least weekly, and as frequently as 3 – 4 times per
week.
- During cycling pH will tend to rise.
- After cycling your aquaponic systems, pH will
probably drop below 7.0 on a regular basis and require being
buffered up. If you need tolower pH it is generally because
of the water source (such as hard ground water) or because you have
a base buffer in your system (eggshells, oyster shell, shell grit,
incorrect media).
- Best method for raising (buffering) pH if it drops
below6.6
- Calcium hydroxide – “hydrated lime” or “builder’s lime”.
- Potassium carbonate (or bicarbonate) or potassium hydroxide
(“pearlash” or “potash”).
- If possible, alternate between these two each time your
systemneeds the pH raised. These also add calcium and
potassium,which your plants will appreciate.
- While they work, be cautious about using natural Calcium
Carbonate products (egg shells, snail shells, sea shells). They
don’t do any harm, but they take a long time to dissolve and
affectthe pH. So, you add it, check pH two hours later and nothing
has changed, so you add more. Then suddenly, the pH spikes because
you have added so much.
- Best methods for lowering pH, in order of preference, if it
goes above 7.6
- pH
Down for Hydroponics - (be careful of using the aquarium
version as this has sodium that is unhealthy for plants).
- Other hydroponic acids like nitric or phosphoric as the
plants can use the nitrate or phosphate produced.
- Other acids, such as vinegar (weak), hydrochloric (strong), and
sulphuric (strong) – last resort as directly adding these acids to
your system could be stressful for your fish.
- Use caution when adding anything to your system containing
sodium as it could build-up over time and cause harm to your
plants.
- Do not use citric acid as this is anti-bacterial and will kill
the bacteria in your bio-filter.
Plant Nutrient Deficiencies - click here for a guide to identifying nutrient
deficiencies inplants
System Design Tool - And for those of you
looking for even more detailed information on sizing your system
click here to use
Dr. Lennard's System Design Tool.
Happy Gardening!
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